Island Peak, the name of this mountain was set in 1953 by Eric Shipton's party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does certainly look like an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the expressive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.

Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesn't look too imposing, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse. However, on close examination it reveals itself to be an attractive and gorgeous summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse ( Island Peak). The continuation of this ridge, downward south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west surface of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.

Island Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a British team as a preparation exercise in training for Mount Everest. Tenzing Norgay Sherpa was one of the members of this first climbing team.

Island Peak is one of the most famous trekking peaks in Nepal as it requires to made-up mountaineering high altitude experience, you will be completing your dream to reach on top of this imposing Island peak  when supported by our a Nepalese professional  climbing Sherpa  guide.

To climb Island peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 m (16,690 ft) called Pareshaya, Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another admired option is to climb to High Camp at around 5,300 m (17,400 ft) to decrease the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, sufficient water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp. Base camp to high camp is basically a hike but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling and up through a broad open channel. At the top of the channel, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes may be setup by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 m (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometers away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above the summit.

If you wish to make your trip longer to Island Peak then our 23 Days Everest Base Camp and Island Peak or 25 Days Island Peak Climbing via Gokyo Chola Pass and Everest Base Camp is option for you.

An Outline of your Itinerary

Book This Trip Any Queries? Print This Page